Beard Balm vs. Beard Oil vs. Butter: Which Do You Need?

Beard balm is a leave-in conditioner for facial hair that blends oils and butters with a wax, so it softens the beard and adds light hold for shaping. Beard oil is thinner and mainly moisturizes the hair and skin underneath, while beard butter sits in between: richer than oil, usually without the wax and hold.

Which one you need depends on your beard length, your skin and how much control you want. Below we compare balm, oil and butter, show you how to apply beard balm, lay out a simple men's grooming routine based on dermatologist advice, and explain where hair clay and pomade fit in.

What is beard balm?

A typical beard balm combines nourishing oils, a butter such as shea butter, and a wax such as beeswax. The wax is what gives balm its hold. The 18.21 Man Made Beard Balm we carry, for example, lists a blend of oils, shea butter and beeswax, and is described as giving a natural finish with a low hold that helps tame and shape coarse or frizzy beards.

Under any beard is skin that needs care too. The American Academy of Dermatology notes that dry skin under a beard can become itchy, and that "well-hydrated skin and hair feel softer, itch less, and look healthier."

Beard balm vs. beard oil vs. beard butter

Which should you choose?

The AAD's dermatologists match the product to your skin: beard oil for normal to dry skin, beard conditioner for acne-prone skin, and a fragrance-free, non-comedogenic moisturizer for sensitive skin. A balm makes sense once your beard is long enough to need shaping, or if flyaways bother you. Some people use oil on the skin and a small amount of balm on top for control.

How to apply beard balm

1. Wash first. The AAD recommends washing your face and beard every day with a gentle cleanser made for your skin type, not soap.
2. Pat dry, leaving it slightly damp. Rinse with lukewarm water and pat dry, as the AAD advises, so skin and hair keep some moisture.
3. Scoop a small amount. The AAD says to use beard conditioner or oil sparingly to prevent a greasy look; you can always add more. The same goes for balm.
4. Warm it between your palms until it softens.
5. Work it in from the skin outward. Massage into the base of the beard, then smooth through to the tips.
6. Comb or brush to shape. Brush gently; the AAD notes that brushing too hard can worsen beard dandruff.
7. Then hands off. The AAD's advice: "Stop touching and stroking your beard," since it can spread germs and dirt to your face.

A simple men's grooming routine

You don't need a cabinet full of products. Here is a short routine built on the AAD's beard care tips:

Daily

• Cleanse face and beard with a gentle cleanser. A 3-in-1 wash can simplify things; the 18.21 Man Made Wash in our men's grooming edit is a sulfate-free hair, beard and body wash.
• Moisturize right after washing, using oil, conditioner or balm to suit your skin type.
• Protect your skin while you're in the stubble phase: the AAD recommends a moisturizer with at least SPF 30 until stubble becomes a beard.

When you trim or shave

• Apply a shaving oil, cream or gel first to help prevent irritation, and use an electric trimmer, or scissors for longer hair.
• For the neckline, shave after a shower, replace blades regularly and shave in the direction your hair grows.

Weekly

• If you get ingrown hairs, the AAD suggests a gentle exfoliating scrub once or twice a week during the stubble phase, followed by moisturizer.

Hair clay, pomade and paste: styling the rest

Beard balm handles your beard; your hair may want something with more hold. Here's how the 18.21 Man Made styling range is described by the brand:

• Hair Clay: a water-soluble blend of clay, wax and elastic fibers that adds thickness and texture with a natural, dull finish. It's paraben-free and described as easy to rinse.
• Pomade: a water-soluble blend of elastic fibers and wax with medium hold and a shiny finish, described as flake-free and easy to wash out.
• Paste: a soft, medium-shine paste for smooth, natural-looking styles.
• Wax: high hold and low shine; the brand notes it can also shape a mustache or beard.

Searching for a "natural pomade"? Read ingredient lists closely. "Water-soluble" describes how a pomade washes out, not whether its ingredients are plant-derived.

What to look for when buying beard balm

• Your skin type first. Acne-prone skin may do better with a beard conditioner, per the AAD.
• Fragrance. Many beard balms are scented. If your skin is sensitive, the AAD suggests a fragrance-free, non-comedogenic option.
• Hold level. Low hold keeps things natural; more wax means more control and more product to wash out.
• Simple ingredients. Oils, a butter and a wax are the core of most balms.

Explore our men's grooming collection. The 18.21 Man Made Beard Balm is a 2 oz fragranced balm made with a blend of oils, shea butter and beeswax, which the brand describes as low hold with a natural finish that's neither too shiny nor matte.

Who should be careful

• Acne-prone skin under the beard. The AAD suggests a non-comedogenic beard conditioner, without beard oil, for acne-prone skin.
• Beard dandruff. The AAD recommends brushing gently, washing the beard and scalp at least weekly with a dandruff shampoo (with 2% zinc pyrithione, 1% ketoconazole or 1% selenium sulfide), and seeing a board-certified dermatologist if a rash persists.
• Sensitive or fragrance-allergic skin. Patch-test any new balm. The AAD suggests applying it to a small area, such as the inside of your arm, twice daily for seven to 10 days.
• Patchy beard or hair loss. See a dermatologist. The AAD advises an appointment if a skin problem continues or you notice hair loss.

Thinking of adding castor oil to your beard routine? Read our castor oil for hair guide first. And for underarm care, see our guide to aluminum-free deodorant.

FAQ

What does beard balm do?

Beard balm conditions facial hair and the skin beneath it while adding light hold, thanks to the wax in its formula. It helps soften coarse hair and tame flyaways so you can shape your beard. The AAD notes that well-hydrated skin and hair feel softer and itch less, which is the main goal of any beard conditioner.

Is beard balm or beard oil better?

Neither is better overall; they do different jobs. Beard oil moisturizes with no hold and suits stubble and short beards, and the AAD suggests it for normal to dry skin. Beard balm adds light hold for longer beards. Many people use a little oil on the skin and balm on top for shape.

How often should you use beard balm?

Once a day after washing works for most people. The AAD recommends washing your face and beard daily and moisturizing right after, using beard conditioner or oil sparingly to avoid a greasy look. If your beard feels heavy or your skin breaks out, cut back on the amount or frequency.

Can beard balm cause breakouts?

It can if your skin is acne-prone, because rich oils and waxes may be too heavy. The AAD suggests a non-comedogenic beard conditioner, without beard oil, for acne-prone skin, and a fragrance-free, non-comedogenic moisturizer for sensitive skin. If breakouts continue, see a board-certified dermatologist.

What's the difference between hair clay and pomade?

Clay usually gives a matte, textured finish with added thickness, while pomade gives more shine. In the 18.21 Man Made range, the hair clay blends clay, wax and elastic fibers for a natural, dull finish, and the pomade blends elastic fibers and wax for medium hold and shine. Both are water-soluble.

Does beard balm help a beard grow?

We found no evidence that it does. Beard balm conditions and shapes the hair you have. If your beard is patchy or you notice hair loss, the AAD recommends seeing a board-certified dermatologist, who can look for an underlying cause and discuss treatment options.

Sources

• American Academy of Dermatology: How to care for your beard
• American Academy of Dermatology: How to treat common beard problems
• American Academy of Dermatology: How to test skin care products

This guide is general information, not medical advice. Patch-test new products and ask a dermatologist or doctor about skin or health concerns.