The best curly hair products are the ones used in the right order: a pre-poo or conditioner to detangle, a gentle shampoo on the scalp, a conditioner through the lengths, a leave-in, then a styler such as a curl defining gel or cream. Most curls need washing less often than straight hair, and gentle handling matters as much as products.
This guide walks through a full wash day step by step, explains cream vs. gel, adjusts the routine for waves, curls and coils without pretending there is one formula for each, covers drying and refresh days, and explains when a clarifying wash helps.
Key takeaways
- Wash-day order: pre-poo, cleanse, condition, leave-in, then style.
- The AAD says curly hair can go longer between washes but should be washed at least every 2 to 3 weeks.
- Gel gives more hold and definition; cream gives more softness and moisture.
- Detangle wet, with conditioner in, using fingers or a wide-tooth comb.
- If you use a lot of gel, oil or cream, clarify occasionally before your regular wash.
Why curly hair needs a different routine
Curly hair is not just straight hair with a bend. A 2015 review of hair cosmetics in the International Journal of Trichology explains that sebum, the scalp's natural oil, spreads poorly along curly strands, so curls tend to be dry along the shaft. The same review says very curly hair is "more susceptible to breakage" when it is combed or handled. Those two facts shape almost every step below: add moisture, and handle hair as little and as gently as you can.
The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) notes that hair types are sometimes described with numbers and letters. Those charts can help you find products labeled for your hair, but they are a loose guide, not a science. Many heads have several textures at once.
Curly hair products in wash-day order
| Step | Product | What it does | Where it goes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Pre-poo | Adds slip and softness before shampoo | Lengths and ends, on dry or damp hair |
| 2 | Shampoo | Cleans oil and residue from the scalp | Scalp, letting lather rinse through |
| 3 | Conditioner or mask | Softens and detangles | Full length of hair |
| 4 | Leave-in conditioner | Keeps moisture in and eases styling | Lengths and ends on wet hair |
| 5 | Styling cream | Soft definition and moisture | Wet hair, before or instead of gel |
| 6 | Curl defining gel | Hold and longer-lasting definition | Wet hair, as the last layer |
Step 1: Pre-poo
A pre-poo is a treatment you apply before shampoo. The AAD's curly hair care advice says that if your hair is very dry or hard to detangle, you can condition before shampooing. That is the basic idea behind a pre-poo: give the lengths slip and softness first so shampoo and detangling are gentler.
Oils are a classic pre-poo. The International Journal of Trichology review cites a study in which coconut oil, used before and after washing, was "the only oil found to reduce the protein loss" in both undamaged and damaged hair, while sunflower and mineral oil did not. That is lab research on hair fibers, not a promise about your hair, but it is one reason oiling before washing is popular.
How to do it: section hair, smooth the pre-poo over the lengths and ends, gently finger-detangle, leave it on as the label directs, then shampoo.
Step 2: Cleanse gently
How often to wash depends on your scalp and how much product you use. The AAD's curly hair page says thick, curly hair does not need daily or even weekly washing but should be washed at least every 2 to 3 weeks. Its tips for Black hair suggest about once a week or every other week to prevent product buildup.
- Use a shampoo formulated for curly hair, as the AAD recommends.
- Apply it to the scalp, not the full length.
- Wash long or thick hair in sections.
- Many curly routines use a sulfate-free shampoo for a milder cleanse. Our sulfate-free shampoo guide covers the pros and the limits of the evidence.
Step 3: Condition and detangle
The AAD recommends conditioning all of your hair, not just the ends, with a thick conditioner, and suggests looking for ingredients such as argan oil, glycerin or fatty alcohols like cetyl or stearyl alcohol. This is the best time to detangle: the AAD says thick, curly hair is best combed in the shower before you rinse out the conditioner.
- Work conditioner through the full length.
- Divide hair into sections.
- Detangle each section with your fingers or a wide-tooth comb, starting at the ends and working up.
- Rinse, or leave a little in if your routine calls for it.
Once a week or so, a mask or deep conditioner can replace your regular conditioner. The AAD's Black hair tips suggest a hot oil treatment about twice a month. Our guide to leave-in vs. deep conditioner explains the difference.
Step 4: Leave-in conditioner
After washing and conditioning, the AAD suggests applying an oil or leave-in conditioner to help hair retain moisture. The International Journal of Trichology review also notes that for curly hair, leave-on products may be used during wet combing. Apply a leave-in to soaking-wet hair in sections, then move straight on to your styler.
Step 5: Styler: curl defining gel vs. styling cream
Curl defining gel
Gel is for hold. It helps curls clump together and keeps their shape as they dry. Many gels dry into a firm layer, sometimes called a cast, which you gently scrunch out once hair is fully dry to reveal softer curls. Choose a gel if your curls lose definition by day two or if humidity makes them frizz.
Styling cream
Cream is for softness and moisture. It gives softer definition and less hold, and suits twist-outs, braid-outs and drier hair that needs extra moisture. Some people use cream alone; others layer cream first, then gel on top.
How to apply
- Apply to soaking-wet hair for the most even coverage.
- Work in sections, smoothing or raking the product through.
- Scrunch upward gently to encourage curl clumps.
- Avoid touching hair while it dries to reduce frizz.
Adjusting the routine for waves, curls and coils
- Wavy hair is often easily weighed down. Try lighter amounts, skip the pre-poo unless ends are dry, and choose gel over rich cream if waves fall flat.
- Curly hair usually does well with the full routine: conditioner, leave-in, then cream, gel or both.
- Coily hair tends to be driest and most fragile. A pre-poo, generous conditioner, careful sectioned detangling and richer creams are common. Wash less often and avoid tight styles; the AAD warns that braids, cornrows and weaves pulled too tight can damage hair, and that "pain equals damage."
Treat these as starting points. Adjust the amounts and steps based on how your hair feels.
How to dry curly hair
- Blot, don't rub. The AAD recommends blotting hair with a towel or t-shirt instead of rubbing. A soft t-shirt or microfiber towel can be wrapped around hair for a short time to absorb water.
- Air-dry when you can. The AAD's tips for fragile hair suggest letting hair dry naturally when possible.
- Diffuse on low heat. If you use a dryer, attach a diffuser and use low or medium heat, as the AAD advises, with a heat protectant.
Refresh days between washes
- Protect curls overnight. The AAD suggests a loose "pineapple" on top of your head or a loose braid to reduce pillowcase friction.
- Mist with water to re-activate your styler.
- Add a small amount of leave-in to dry or frizzy sections.
- Re-scrunch or re-twist sections that lost shape.
- Wear a shower cap when you bathe between washes, as the AAD suggests.
Clarifying occasionally
Gels, creams, butters and oils build up. The AAD says to use a clarifying shampoo first if you regularly use gels, oils, creams or pomades. If curls feel coated, look limp, or products stop working, a clarifying wash on the scalp followed by a rich conditioner is a reset, not a new routine. Long gaps between washes can also lead to flakes; the AAD suggests applying anti-dandruff shampoo only to the scalp.
What to look for when buying curly hair products
- Slip in pre-poos, conditioners and leave-ins, so detangling is easier.
- Conditioning ingredients the AAD names, such as glycerin, argan oil, cetyl or stearyl alcohol.
- Hold level in stylers: gel for definition, cream for softness.
- Fragrance-free options if your scalp reacts easily.
Shop conditioners and hair masks, stylers in hair styling, and the curl-focused Nature's Little Secret range. From the listings:
- Fenugreek Detangling Pre-Poo is described as a high-slip pre-shampoo treatment made to help loosen tangles and soften knots before shampoo.
- Okra Curl Defining Gel is described as a gel for definition and touchable hold with a flake-free finish, without a stiff, crunchy feel.
- Irish Moss Styling Cream is described as a rich cream for twist-outs, braid-outs and styles that need moisture, softness and definition.
Who should be careful
- Sensitive scalps. Botanical extracts and fragrance can irritate. The AAD's home test is to apply a product to the inner arm twice a day for 7 to 10 days.
- Breakage, thinning or texture changes. The AAD advises seeing a board-certified dermatologist if you notice changes in hair texture or any thinning.
- Heat and chemical services. The AAD recommends a heat protectant and the lowest effective temperature, and professional application for relaxers.
FAQ
What order should I apply curly hair products?
A common order is pre-poo, shampoo, conditioner, leave-in conditioner, then a styler. If you use both a styling cream and a gel, apply the cream first and the gel last, on soaking-wet hair. The AAD supports the core of this routine: condition the full length, then apply a leave-in or oil to help hair hold moisture.
What is a pre-poo and do I need one?
A pre-poo is a conditioning treatment applied before shampoo to add slip and soften the lengths. The AAD says people with very dry or hard-to-detangle hair can condition before shampooing, which is the same idea. If your hair detangles easily and does not feel dry after washing, you can skip it.
Is curl defining gel or cream better?
Neither is better overall; they do different jobs. Gel gives more hold and longer-lasting definition, which helps in humidity or when curls fall apart quickly. Cream gives softer definition and more moisture, and suits twist-outs, braid-outs and dry hair. Many people layer both, with cream first and gel on top.
How often should you wash curly hair?
Less often than straight hair, in most cases. The AAD says thick, curly hair does not need daily or even weekly washing but should be washed at least every 2 to 3 weeks. Its advice for Black hair suggests about once a week or every other week. Wash more often if your scalp gets oily or flaky.
Should you brush curly hair?
Not when it is dry. The AAD says brushing dry hair causes breakage and frizz. Instead, detangle wet hair that has conditioner or leave-in in it, using your fingers or a wide-tooth comb or brush designed for curly hair. Work in sections and start at the ends before moving up toward the roots.
How do I refresh curly hair without washing?
Protect curls at night with a loose pineapple or braid, as the AAD suggests. In the morning, mist hair with water to re-activate your styler, smooth a little leave-in over dry or frizzy sections, and re-scrunch or re-twist any curls that lost shape. Wear a shower cap when bathing between washes.
Sources
- Gavazzoni Dias MFR. Hair Cosmetics: An Overview. International Journal of Trichology, 2015
- American Academy of Dermatology: How to care for curly hair
- American Academy of Dermatology: Tips for healthy hair
- American Academy of Dermatology: Black hair: Tips for everyday care
- American Academy of Dermatology: Hair loss tips for managing
- American Academy of Dermatology: How to test skin care products
This guide is general information, not medical advice. Patch-test new products and ask a dermatologist or doctor about skin or health concerns.
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