In the bakuchiol vs. retinol comparison, bakuchiol is a plant extract that, in one 12-week randomized study, reduced wrinkles and hyperpigmentation about as well as retinol while causing less scaling and stinging. Retinol, a form of vitamin A, has a much longer track record, so bakuchiol is best thought of as a gentler alternative rather than a proven equal.
If retinol has left your skin dry or irritated, or you're simply curious about plant-based options, here's how the two compare, what the research shows, whether you can use them together, and how to decide which belongs in your routine.
Key takeaways
- Retinol is a vitamin A derivative with decades of evidence; bakuchiol is a plant extract with a small but promising evidence base.
- In one 12-week randomized trial of 44 people, 0.5% bakuchiol and 0.5% retinol improved wrinkles and dark spots similarly.
- Bakuchiol caused less scaling and stinging and can be used morning or night.
- The AAD says retinoids should not be used during pregnancy; bakuchiol's pregnancy safety isn't established either.
What is retinol?
"Retinoids" is a catch-all term for vitamin A-based skin care products, according to the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD). Retinol is one type, sold over the counter and commonly used for uneven tone, pigmentation and texture. Retinoids speed up the turnover of surface skin cells and boost collagen, which can improve skin tone and reduce fine lines and wrinkles.
The trade-off is irritation. Cleveland Clinic notes that retinol can cause dry, irritated skin, and some people experience itching or burning. Mayo Clinic adds that this irritation "often lessens over time."
What is bakuchiol?
Bakuchiol is a plant-based extract from the babchi plant, which has a history of use in Chinese and Indian medicine, according to Cleveland Clinic. It's found in serums, moisturizers and creams. Cleveland Clinic dermatologist Dr. Shilpi Khetarpal says it's "often used as a gentler alternative to retinol." Claimed benefits include softening the look of fine lines, improving firmness, fading sun damage and dark spots, and antioxidant properties.
What the bakuchiol vs. retinol research says
The key study is a 2019 trial published in the British Journal of Dermatology (Dhaliwal and colleagues). It was prospective, randomized and double-blind:
- Participants: 44 adults; 23 used retinol and 21 used bakuchiol.
- Products: 0.5% bakuchiol cream twice daily, or 0.5% retinol cream once nightly.
- Length: 12 weeks.
- Results: "Bakuchiol and retinol both significantly decreased wrinkle surface area," with no statistically significant difference between them. Both also improved hyperpigmentation, again with no statistical difference.
- Tolerability: "The retinol users reported more facial skin scaling and stinging."
The authors note the study's limits: a small, single-center group and a 12-week timeframe. Cleveland Clinic adds that while bakuchiol compares well with over-the-counter retinol, more research is needed to compare it with prescription retinoids.
Earlier lab work
A 2014 paper in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science explains why researchers became interested. Bakuchiol, from the seeds and leaves of Psoralea corylifolia, has "no structural resemblance to retinoids," yet in a lab-grown skin model it changed gene activity in a pattern very similar to retinol, including genes for collagen types I and IV. The same paper reported a 12-week case study of twice-daily facial use, with improvements in lines, pigmentation, elasticity and firmness. That case study had no comparison group, so the 2019 randomized trial is the stronger evidence.
Bakuchiol vs. retinol at a glance
| Bakuchiol | Retinol | |
|---|---|---|
| Source | Babchi plant extract | Vitamin A derivative |
| Evidence | Promising but limited; one key randomized study | Long-established; part of the well-studied retinoid family |
| 2019 trial results | Reduced wrinkle area and hyperpigmentation | Similar reductions, no significant difference |
| Irritation | Less scaling and stinging in the 2019 trial | Can cause dryness, irritation, itching or burning |
| Sun sensitivity | Doesn't appear to thin the outer skin layer, per Cleveland Clinic | Can make skin more sun-sensitive; use at night only |
| When to apply | Once or twice daily, morning and/or evening | At night |
| Pregnancy | Thought to be lower risk, but not well studied; ask your provider | The AAD says retinoids should not be used during pregnancy |
Who might choose bakuchiol
- Retinol makes your skin unhappy. The AAD says people with skin allergies or dryness are probably not good candidates for retinoids.
- You want a daytime option. Cleveland Clinic says bakuchiol can be used once or twice a day, and it can be used with vitamin C, which may complement it.
- You're pregnant or planning to be. The AAD says retinoids should not be used during pregnancy. Bakuchiol has been suggested to carry less risk, but Cleveland Clinic says more research is needed, so talk to your healthcare provider first.
Who might choose retinol
The AAD calls retinoids a reasonable option for mild acne, mild pigmentation irregularities, or mild fine lines and wrinkles. If your skin tolerates it, retinol offers the deeper evidence base.
The AAD's tips for starting retinol: choose the least intense formula you can find, use it every other night at first and build up gradually, use it only at night, and moisturize. People with darker skin tones should watch for irritation, which can lead to dark marks. A structured rotation like skin cycling is one way to build up slowly.
Can you use bakuchiol and retinol together?
None of the sources we reviewed tested the two together. The AAD cautions that "using too many products may irritate the skin, especially if you are using more than one anti-aging product," and Cleveland Clinic suggests asking a dermatologist if you're using other active products. If you want both, a cautious approach is to use them at different times of day and add one at a time. Our ingredient mixing checker can help you plan.
How to use bakuchiol or retinol
- Patch-test first. Bakuchiol is generally considered safe, but some people may still experience irritation or allergic reactions. Test on a small area.
- Apply after cleansing. Serums go before moisturizer; creams go after other serums, according to Cleveland Clinic. See our routine order tool.
- Start slowly with retinol. Every other night at first, at night only, per the AAD.
- Moisturize. A calming partner such as niacinamide may help offset some of retinol's irritation, according to Cleveland Clinic.
- Wear sunscreen every morning. Cleveland Clinic recommends sunscreen with either product, and the AAD also advises shade and protective clothing when using retinoids.
What to look for when buying bakuchiol or retinol
- Retinol: the AAD suggests choosing the least intense formula you can find; over-the-counter labels don't always state the percentage.
- Bakuchiol: a stated concentration helps; the 2019 trial used 0.5%.
- Fragrance-free formulas if your skin is sensitive, as the AAD recommends for dry, sensitive skin.
- One active at a time, so you know what your skin is responding to.
We don't stock a bakuchiol or retinol product yet. For gentle supporting steps, browse our sensitive skin collection, or look at Barie Prickly Pear Cactus Seed Oil, which its listing describes as a light-to-medium, cold-pressed oil naturally rich in vitamin E. It contains neither ingredient.
Who should skip retinol or be careful
- Pregnancy: skip retinoids, per the AAD, and ask your provider before using bakuchiol.
- Very red, inflamed skin, moderate to severe acne scarring, or hormonal acne: the AAD recommends seeing a dermatologist before starting a retinoid.
- Skin allergies or dryness: probably not good candidates for retinoids, according to the AAD.
- Sensitive skin trying bakuchiol: it's often well tolerated, but irritation and allergic reactions are possible.
FAQ
Is bakuchiol as effective as retinol?
In one 12-week randomized trial of 44 people, 0.5% bakuchiol and 0.5% retinol produced similar improvements in wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, and bakuchiol users reported less scaling and stinging. It was a small, single-center study, and more research is needed, especially comparing bakuchiol with prescription retinoids.
Is bakuchiol safe during pregnancy?
Cleveland Clinic says bakuchiol has been suggested to carry less risk than retinol, but more research is needed before that claim can be substantiated. Ask your healthcare provider before using it. The AAD says retinoids should not be used during pregnancy, so retinol is off the table until you've talked to your provider.
Can I use bakuchiol in the morning?
Yes. Cleveland Clinic says it can be applied once or twice daily, morning and evening, and that it can be used with vitamin C. If you're using a bakuchiol serum, apply it before your moisturizer, and follow with a broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day.
Does bakuchiol make skin sensitive to the sun?
According to Cleveland Clinic, bakuchiol doesn't appear to thin the outer layer of skin the way retinol can, which is one reason retinol increases sun sensitivity. Sunscreen is still recommended with either ingredient, along with shade and protective clothing when you're outdoors for long periods.
Can I use bakuchiol and retinol at the same time?
The sources we reviewed didn't test the combination. The AAD warns that using more than one anti-aging product may irritate skin, so if you want both, consider using them at different times of day, introducing one at a time, and asking a dermatologist, especially if you use prescription treatments.
How long does bakuchiol take to work?
In the 2019 trial, researchers measured results after 12 weeks of twice-daily use of 0.5% bakuchiol, and the 2014 case study also ran for 12 weeks. Mayo Clinic notes many skin care products need several weeks of consistent use before you notice a difference, so give it about three months.
Sources
- Dhaliwal S, et al. Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. Br J Dermatol, 2019 (author manuscript, University of Michigan Deep Blue)
- Chaudhuri RK, Bojanowski K. Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects. Int J Cosmet Sci, 2014 (PubMed)
- Cleveland Clinic: Bakuchiol: Retinol Alternative for Sensitive Skin
- Cleveland Clinic: Niacinamide: What It Is and Skin Benefits
- American Academy of Dermatology: Retinoid or retinol?
- American Academy of Dermatology: Should I apply my skin care products in a certain order?
- American Academy of Dermatology: Dermatologists' tips for relieving dry skin
- Mayo Clinic: Wrinkle creams: Your guide to younger looking skin
This guide is general information, not medical advice. Patch-test new products and ask a dermatologist or doctor about skin or health concerns.
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